MORE SHEEP THAN PEOPLE

The Faroe Islands, located in the North Atlantic between Iceland and Scotland, are remote and isolated. The dramatic landscape is treeless and mountainous, deeply cut with fjords and inlets with tightly packed villages near the shore and grassy fields as far as the eye can see. A network of tunnels, bridges, and ferries connects the 18 islands. It’s a place like no other with its unique blend of modern and native.

Fishing has been the primary source of income for centuries, initially with line-caught fish and now aquaculture. Many consider Faroe salmon the finest farmed salmon in the world due to fresh, temperate waters and strong currents that keep the fish clean. The people of the Faroe Islands are committed to sustainability and sound stewardship of their environment.

The 50,000 people who live here, primarily in the capital city of Tórshavn, are outnumbered by the sheep that graze the mountains. In the past, many young adults left the islands to pursue higher education abroad and did not return. However, economic growth has now led to a better job market and increased options for higher education. This prosperity is evident in Tórshavn, but smaller villages like Gjógv remain quiet.

One might not expect to find a two-star Michelin restaurant in such a remote place. Tucked away in a hard-to-find farmhouse, Koks serves traditional Faroese food such as wind-dried mutton, lichen, raw mahogany clam, and whale heart. Chef Poul Andrias Ziska uses the ancient practices of drying, fermenting, salting, and smoking to create simple local dishes that are fresh, sustainable, and beautiful.